Title: Is Kenya Ready for Regenerative Fashion? A Hard Look at the Future of Sustainable Style

By Cris Njoki, Founder & CEO of IKOJN

Kenya has always been stylish. From the vibrant khangas of the coast to Nairobi's edgy thrifted looks, fashion has long been a form of expression, identity, and survival in our culture. But now, more than ever, fashion is becoming a matter of responsibility.

A few weeks ago, I was invited to speak on a panel about the difference between sustainable and regenerative fashion. It opened up a conversation that I believe we, as a country, urgently need to have.

What Is Regenerative Fashion?

Sustainable fashion aims to maintain the status quo—do no further harm, reduce waste, and improve working conditions. But regenerative fashion goes a step further. It’s about renewal and healing. It’s about creating systems where fashion contributes positively to the planet—through biodegradable fabrics, zero-waste production, and garments that are designed for reuse and recycling.

It’s not just about not doing harm. It’s about doing good.

My Journey: From Mtumba to Made in Kenya

The first KES 50 dress I ever sold was secondhand. IKOJN was born from mtumba culture—thrifting, curating, and storytelling through clothes. It was accessible, affordable, and entrepreneurial. But as I’ve grown in the industry, I’ve had to reckon with a deeper truth:

Kenya is now the largest importer of secondhand clothes in the world—outpacing countries with three times our population. And 75% of these imports are unwearable. They are waste. Waste that ends up in our landfills, polluting our environment and undermining the growth of our local textile economy.

The Real Cost of “Cheap” Clothes

Secondhand clothing may seem affordable, but the hidden costs are heavy:

• Environmental degradation from textile dumping

• Suppression of local garment production and design

• Exposure to harmful synthetic fibers and chemicals

If we’re going to be honest about sustainability, we must also be honest about the global system that treats African nations as the endpoint for fashion waste.

Are Kenyans Ready for Regenerative Fashion?

That’s the big question. Are Kenyan consumers ready to buy stylish, high-quality garments that are made from recycled or repurposed materials? Are we ready to pay full price when we know the pieces are crafted from what was once considered “waste”?

I believe we can be. But it starts with education, storytelling, and a mindset shift.

We have the creativity. We have the talent. What we need now is the infrastructure:

• Locally produced textiles using sustainable and regenerative methods

• Policies that support eco-entrepreneurs

• Incentives for circular production models

• A fashion curriculum that integrates environmental design principles

Kenya Can Lead

Regenerative fashion isn’t just about clothing. It’s about dignity, sovereignty, and economic power. It’s about building an industry that is by us, for us, and good to us.

At IKOJN, we are committing to exploring ways to incorporate regenerative design into our collections—from deadstock fabric repurposing to limited-run capsule collections that reduce waste.

Because we believe Kenya is not only ready—we are meant to lead.

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